Insulae Draconis War Tabard/Surcoat

The tabard is basically a long rectangle, with a hole for the neck, scooped out armholes and semi-circular(ish) sleeves. It is all black except for a 8" deep blue stripe across the bottom (there is no black below this). It has no fastenings, but should be worn with a belt. The top of the blue stripe should NOT show above the belt - there should be a small amount of black below the belt.

The diagram shows the tabard folded in half at the shoulders. You will need to take the following measurements:

A = half of the largest dimension around the torso (probably chest or tummy)
B = distance from top of shoulder to mid thigh - this may be different front and back
C = distance across neck
D = half of distance from side of neck to point of shoulder
E = distance form top of shoulder to bottom of sleeve hole - remember to make this big enough for the sleeves of the garb you may wear with the tabard
F = 8"
G = 12"
H = the distance around the scooped out armhole - you will not be able to measure this until you have cut out the body of the tabard.

Important note: none of these measurements include seam allowances - you will need to add these when you cut out the tabard.

Cut out a rectangle 2B (or front B + back B) long and A wide out of black cloth. If you do not have enough material, it can be 8" shorter than this, both front and back.
Fold it in half as shown in the diagram - if the front and back are not the same length it will not line up at the bottom.
Cut out a hole C wide and large enough for your head to fit through - most people will want it to be deeper at the front than at the back.
On each side, mark distance D from the edge of the neck hole and distance E down from the top of the tabard. Cut a smooth curve between these points.
Measure the length of this curve (this is H).
Cut out two curved black sleeves as shown in the diagram.
Cut two strips of blue cloth 8" deep by A wide.
Cut out a complete tabard in lining material.
Sew it all together. Topstitch along all the edges to make it look neat.

 

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